Eating your way into the city, one market stall at a time. One of the easiest ways to feel at home in a new place is through food. In Cuenca, that’s especially true. The local cuisine here is hearty, affordable, and deeply tied to Andean tradition, and the best way to experience it isn’t in a fancy restaurant. It’s in the markets, where locals have been eating the same dishes for generations.
Here’s what to look for, and where to find it.
Hornado: the dish you can’t miss
Hornado is one of the most traditional dishes in the Ecuadorian highlands, made from whole pigs slow-roasted until the skin turns golden and crisp. It’s typically served with mote, potatoes, and a simple salad of lettuce, tomato, and pickled onions. The most famous hornado stand in Cuenca belongs to Doña Elsita Cárdenas, who has won awards for the best hornado in the city and placed second nationally.
Llapingachos and mote: the everyday staples
Llapingachos are fried mashed potato patties stuffed with cheese, usually served alongside hornado with a side of mote, the large native corn of Ecuador. Mote pillo, sautéed with eggs, onions, garlic, and achiote, is a typical Cuenca breakfast.
What else to try
Look out for empanadas de viento, cheese-filled pastries dusted with sugar, often sold by street vendors near the historic plazas. Locro de papa, a potato soup served with avocado, is a comforting option that highlights Ecuador’s Andean crops. For something refreshing, try mora juice, made from local blackberries, with a flavor that’s tart and slightly sweet.
Where to find it: the markets
Cuenca’s markets are split between a ground floor focused on fresh produce and meats, and an upper floor dedicated to ready-to-eat meals and almuerzos, the set lunch menus that are both filling and affordable.
Mercado 10 de Agosto
This is the most famous food market in Cuenca, with multiple stalls serving hornado on the second floor, along with ceviche, soups, tamales, and fresh juices. It’s busy, authentic, and the best place to try a real almuerzo alongside locals.
Mercado 9 de Octubre
One of the largest markets in the city, this is where residents do their daily shopping for fresh fruit, vegetables, meat, and fish, and it doubles as a social gathering spot.
Mercado de Fátima
Known for organic produce and medicinal herbs, this market is a good option if you’re looking for healthier ingredients to cook at home.
A note for new arrivals
Markets can feel overwhelming the first few times, especially if your Spanish is still limited. Pointing at what looks good and asking “¿cuánto cuesta?” goes a long way, and most vendors are patient and happy to help.
If you’re still settling in and navigating daily life feels like one more thing on a long list, that’s exactly the kind of thing we help with.
Book your free 15-minute consultation at cuencaroots.com
